Park #56 – July 2025
In July, Cameron (Cami) and I checked off park number 56: Isle Royale National Park. Tucked into the icy waters of Lake Superior near the Canadian border, Isle Royale is remote, raw, and unlike any other national park we’ve visited. It’s a place you truly have to want to reach—and we absolutely did.
Getting There Is Half the Adventure
We flew into Minneapolis–Saint Paul International Airport (MSP) and began the long drive north, winding through the woods and shoreline towns of Minnesota and then deep into Michigan’s Upper Peninsula. Our destination was Copper Harbor, the northernmost town in Michigan and a jumping-off point to the island. The drive took over seven hours, but the scenery—dense forest, lighthouses, glimpses of the big lake—made the time pass quickly.
Copper Harbor itself is a quiet, beautiful place with a year-round population under 150. There’s no cell service, barely any Wi-Fi, and just one place to eat after dark: The Mariner North, a cozy local spot with good food, friendly service, and hours that stretch to 2 a.m.—which is necessary when it’s the only option. We stayed in a basic motel right on the water, walking distance to the ferry terminal. We had the luck of watching an amazing sunset over the vast lake on our first and only night there.
The Ferry
There are only a few ways to get to Isle Royale: ferries from Houghton or Copper Harbor in Michigan, or Grand Portage in Minnesota—or a seaplane out of Hancock, Michigan. None of them are quick, and all are dependent on weather. Ferries can be delayed or canceled due to big waves or fog, and the lake is notorious for both.
We took the Queen IV, a 100-passenger ferry operated by Isle Royale Line, a family-run company now in its second generation. The ride from Copper Harbor to Rock Harbor, on the northeast end of the island, takes just under four hours and is the fastest boat route. We met the captain before departure and were impressed by how smoothly the whole operation ran. Tickets sell out well in advance, so if you’re considering a visit, plan early.
Lake Superior was calm that day, and the crossing was uneventful—a quiet ride across open water, with occasional birds and mist hanging low over the surface.
Rock Harbor: Gateway to the Park
Rock Harbor is one of only two developed areas on Isle Royale (the other being Windigo, on the opposite end of the island). As we arrived, park rangers greeted us on the dock, separating visitors into groups: campers, day-trippers, and lodge guests. After a quick but informative orientation covering safety, wildlife, services, and Leave No Trace principles, we were off to explore.
We had booked one of the Housekeeping Cabins at Rock Harbor Lodge, which turned out to be a great choice. These cabins are rustic but recently updated, with floor-to-ceiling windows, a queen bed, and bunk beds. Ours sat tucked into the woods, offering just enough comfort while still feeling immersed in the wild.
Rock Harbor itself is a charming cluster of buildings surrounded by dense forest and jagged shoreline. There’s a small visitor center, a camp store, two restaurants, docks for private boats, and water taxi services for hikers. The majority of the park’s visitors are backpackers probably 70 of the 90 passengers on our ferry carried packs. Lodge accommodations are limited, so again, book well in advance if tents aren’t your thing.
Trails, Wildlife, and Bug Nets
The hiking here is linear since Rock Harbor sits on a narrow stretch of land, most trails go north or south. We explored both directions, sticking mostly to day hikes due to the lodge-based stay. One of our favorite areas was Tobin Harbor, with quiet trails and moody shoreline views. We spent a long evening around Moose Point, photographing the soft light of sunset reflecting off the water.
Hiking was relatively easy, with well-maintained trails and steady terrain. The weather was cool a welcome relief from the summer heat back home. We had no storms while we were there, though we could see them forming over the lake the morning we left.
The one downside: the bugs. Mosquitoes and black flies were thick in the air, and we forgot our head nets. Luckily, Cameron found some in the camp store, which saved us from total misery. Bug spray helped, but not much.
Isle Royale is a true digital detox. There’s no cell service, unless you get lucky and catch a faint signal from a Canadian tower. The park does offer limited satellite Wi-Fi near the visitor center, but it’s slow and intermittent. That said, it was just enough to check in and send a few texts home. It’s the kind of place that forces you to slow down and that’s part of its magic.
We ate all our meals at the Greenstone Grill, a casual spot next to the lodge. The food is basic, as you’d expect for a remote island, but warm and filling after a day on the trails. The visitor center is small, but it had everything we needed park maps, and the stamp and patches we collect for each park.
A Surprise Visitor (and an Early Exit)
On our second night, after returning from sunset at Moose Point, we found our cabin… full of mice. We tried to get them out, but they were bold and fast, running over our gear and belongings. It was late after 10 p.m.—and we couldn’t find staff to help. After weighing our options, we decided to leave the next day.
Despite the hiccup, we woke early for one last sunrise, grabbed breakfast, and waited for the boat crew to arrive. Normally, changing your ferry reservation is difficult. You can’t call or rebook online your best bet is to talk directly to the captain when the boat comes in and hope someone doesn’t show up. We got lucky. The captain originally thought the ferry was full but told us to show up at 2 p.m. just in case. And someone didn’t show—so we got on.
The ride back was bumpier, with 1-4 foot waves rolling across the lake. Still, everyone did fine. As we approached Copper Harbor, the Queen IV paused offshore and sounded its horn three times. Right on cue, the staff of Harbor Haus Restaurant came out and danced from the deck a quirky local tradition that’s been going on for nearly 50 years.
Off the Island
After unloading back in Copper Harbor, we packed up and began the long drive south. We decided to break it up with a stop in Wausau, Wisconsin, getting in around 11 p.m. The next day was all about reset: laundry, showers, and sorting out the gear that had been generously shared with island mice. We found a great lunch spot at Red Eye Brewing Company well worth the stop. We had a lovely time playing mini-golf in the blazing sun at Sawmill Adventure Park. The day ended with takeout and much needed rest.
The following day we repacked and made the drive back to Minneapolis–Saint Paul International Airport for a late afternoon flight home.
Isle Royale is wild, remote, and deeply peaceful. It’s not the easiest park to reach and that’s part of what makes it special. The moments on the trails, the light off the water, and the complete break from technology were unforgettable. Despite the mice and the early departure, it was still a magical place and one we’re glad to have experienced together.
Onward to park number 57. (in just a few weeks).
